Soap-Free Cleanser

Introduction

Soap-free products have gained popularity among people with dry or sensitive skin due to their milder nature and pH-balanced formula.



pH and Skin Biology

pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline a substance is.

  • It ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral.

Normal skin pH ranges from 4.1 to 5.8, which means it is slightly acidic. It varies according to

The acidic pH of the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) is crucial for skin barrier function (preventing transepidermal water loss and dehydration) and provide an antimicrobial barrier by preventing colonization (e.g. by Staphylococcus aureus and Malassezia).

  • Inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and irritant contact dermatitis, are associated with an increased skin pH and a disturbed skin barrier.



Cleansing and Skin

Water alone is ineffective to remove dirt, sebum and sweat due to their hydrophobic nature.

  • Therefore, cleansers usually contain surfactants, which are substances that can reduce the surface tension between water and oil.
  • Surfactants form micelles, which are spherical structures with a hydrophilic (water-loving) outer layer and a lipophilic (oil-loving) inner core.
  • Micelles can surround oily substances, such as sebum, dispersing them in water for removal and rinsing.

Traditional soap, often a colourful, scented bar, is made through a process called saponification. It involves treating vegetable and animal fats with a strong base (e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide).
  • While traditional soaps effectively remove dirt and pollutants from your skin, they are often high in pH (pH 9-11, which can disrupt the acidic pH of the stratum corneum) and harsh in cleaning (also wash off the normal lipids over the overlying skin, and contributing to dryness and irritation).

On the other hand, soap-free cleansers do not mean they are chemical-free. But, they contain milder synthetic surfactants. Hence, they are often gentler in cleansing and formulated to protect skin barrier [e.g. pH-balanced (around 4.5-5.5) and protect microbiome].

  • Additionally, some soap-free products may contain active ingredients such as dexpanthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, glycerrhetinic acid, lichochalcone A and niacinamide, which can help to soothe and calm the skin when used in the right concentration.



Summary

Soap-free products are a good option for people with dry or sensitive skin who want to cleanse their skin without compromising its health and function.

  • However, not all soap-free products are created equal, so it is important to read the labels carefully and look for ingredients that are suitable for your skin type and condition.



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